Lip or care stick which contains vitamins

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a lip or care stick which contains vitamins and which is used for cosmetic applications. The stick contains an outer complex comprised of a cellulose derivative having a particle size ranging from 0.5 to 100 μm, and is comprised of a phospholipid and of an α-tocopheral ester. The proportion of the complex is equal to 0.5 and 40 wt. %, with regard to the total mass. The stick also contains cosmetically conventional fats, waxes and additive which have a proportion ranging from 99.5 to 60 wt. % α-tocopheral is stabilized with regard to UV-filters, can also be dissolved in the form of the complex by moisture and can be absorbed and processed as a vitamin by the body.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to a lip or care stick which contains vitamins andwhich is used for cosmetic applications. The term lipstick will usedherein to refer to both a colored lipstick and a lip care stick such asa chap stick.

DESCRIPTION OF THE RELATED ART

It is known from DE 38 206 93 A1 that in topic preparations freetocopherols can be stabilised in the presence of sun-blockers by addingascorbic acids of C₁₁-C₁₈ fatty acids and citric acid esters of partialglycerides of C₁₂-C₂₀ fatty acids.

Further, it is known from US-A-4954332 that tocopherols and vitamin Cdecompose in the presence of UV filters, and steroid and non-steroidanti-inflammation agents are added to prevent decomposition.

Further, a number of lipstick products are known which containtocopherol additives as anti-oxidants (e.g. US-A-4699780).

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the invention to develop new lip and care stickscontaining stabilised tocopherols.

It is another object of the invention to keep the tocopherol content ata stable level when used together with common chemical sun-blockers.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

According to the invention, there are provided lip or care sticks on awax base in which the cosmetic stick substance contains an additioncomplex comprised of a cellulose derivative comprising carboxymethylcellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose having a particle sizebetween 0.5 and 100 μm, a phospholipid and an α-tocopherol estercomprising tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl succinate, tocopherylpropionate, tocopheryl oleate, tocopheryl linolate, tocopheryl sorbate,the proportion of said complex being 0.5 to 40 wt. % relative to theoverall weight, together with cosmetically conventional fats, waxes andadditives having a proportion of 99.5 to 60 wt. %.

It was found out that the addition complexes of tocopherol, aphospholipid and cellulose derivatives represent a form in which thecellulose complexes are dissolved by humidity and, together with thesettled tocopherols, are taken in by the body of the user wherein thebody can process the tocopherol as a vitamin.

A preferred α-tocopherol ester is α-tocopheryl acetate.

Preferably, the proportion of the addition complex ranges between 2 and30 wt. %, preferably from 5 to 25 wt. % relative to the overall weight.Other preferred proportions range between 8 and 28 wt. %, particularlyfrom 8 to 18 wt. %.

Suitable phospholipids are phosphatidylcholine,phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol and phosphatidylserineand mixtures thereof, the most preferred of which isphosphatidylcholine. The phospholipid proportion may range between 0.01and 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 to 3 wt. % relative to the totalcomposition.

Other additives are selected among oil-soluble UVB filters including4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as 4-(dimethylamino) benzoicacid(2-ethylhexyl)ester; cinnamic acid esters such as 4-methoxy cinnamicacid(2-ethylhexyl)ester, benzophenone derivatives such as2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives suchas 3-benzylidene camphor. Preferred UV filters are benzophenone-3, butylmethoxybenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate,4-methyl benzylidene camphor, homosalate and octyl dimethyl PABA.

It was found out that the proportion of these UV filters does not haveany adverse effect onto the tocopherol proportion, i.e. the tocopherolproportion remains essentially stable without any prior artdecomposition processes occurring.

The organic UV filters may range between 2 and 15 wt. % of the overallweight of the stick.

Inorganic UV filters may be selected as further additives, such as TiO₂,SiO₂, ZnO and mixtures thereof, the proportions of which have to beadapted to obtain the desired colour of the stick. TiO₂ proportionsbetween 1 and 4 wt. % are advantageous.

The waxes may be selected among carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite,beeswax, montan wax, wool wax, ceresine, micro-waxes, paraffin waxes,petrolatum.

Further additives are, for example, selected among castor oil, paraffinoil, myristyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl lanolate,isopropyl palmitate, p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester.

Other suitable oils are, for example, mineral oils, hydrogenatedpolyisobutene, polyisoprene, squalane, tridecyltrimellitate,trimethylpropane triisostearate, isodecylcitrate, neopentyl glycoldiheptanoate, PPG-15-stearyl ether, calendula oil, jojoba oil, avocadooil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil or a mixture thereof. Depending uponthe oils selected, the cosmetic properties of the solid composition,such as softness, hardness, spreading effect, are affected.

In order to improve the hardness and stability of the sticks accordingto the invention, polymers or copolymers are contained therein, such as,for example, hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/inden copolymers, e.g.Régalite R101® by Hercules; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone andlong-chain α-olefines such as Antaron V220®, Antaron V216®, Unimer U15®;salts of fatty acid esters such as sodium isostearoyl lactylate(Pationic ISL® by Rita Corp.); and PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate (e.g.glucamate DOE 120®);as well as mixtures thereof, and of natural rubberssuch as polyisoprene.

Likewise preferred are hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indencopolymers as they reduce the breaking strength of sticks. Further,hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins ensure a better mouldability and fillingability of the composition into lipstick or thin stick moulds.

Other additives or agents in the cosmetic compositions may includevitamins, e.g. vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives; dyed plant extractssuch as fat-soluble gardenia extract, fat-soluble carrot extract,paprika LS extract, β-carotene, lithospermum extract.

The addition of fragrance substances is of interest as well. Perfumeproportions may be added to the sticks according to the invention,mostly dissolved in alcohols and as a concentrate.

Further, the addition of dyes and pigments to the sticks according tothe invention is of particular interest. All known organic dyes andinorganic pigments common to the cosmetic industry may be used. It hasto be noted that for maintaining a possible transparency of acomposition it is required to dye said composition using organicoil-soluble dyes while inorganic pigments may be used for translucent ormore turbid compositions as well.

The organic oil-soluble dyes may be added problem-free to thecomposition. Advantageously, inorganic pigments are applied by grindingthe pigment or pigment mixture together with an oil and then adding itto the composition. Small quantities of pigments, approximately in aproportion between 0.1 and 0.3 wt. %, result in coloured, nearlytransparent solid compositions provided that appropriate basicsubstances such as lanosterine are used. In case of larger pigmentquantities, approximately between 3 and 4 wt. %, the composition isturbid or opaque. Hence, the formulation of lipsticks, lip gloss orfoundations is possible, also representing specific embodiments of theinvention, in which the pigment proportions may be up to 8 wt. %.

Pigments, pigment mixtures or powders with a pigment-like effect, alsoincluding those with a pearl-gloss effect, may include, for example,iron oxides, titanium (di)oxide, mica, kaolin, French chalk,mica-titanium oxide, mica-titananium oxide-iron oxide, bismuthoxychloride, nylon beads, ceramic beads, expanded and non-expandedsynthetic polymer powders, powdery natural organic compounds such asmilled solid algae, encapsulated and non-encapsulated cereal starchesand mica-titanium oxide-organic dye.

Another specific feature of the invention is that the composition isfree of an aqueous phase, i.e. it does not contain separately addedwater which would have to be understood as an independent phase. Atmost, the composition contains such small amounts of water which arebrought in because they are physically bound to some additives. Thisproportion is, however, considerably less than 5 wt. %. Thus, thecompositions according to the invention differ clearly from preparationscontaining cellulose derivatives as thickeners in aqueous solutions oremulsions.

Further, it was found out that α-tocopheryl acetate has a surprisinglyexcellent stability at the lipstick processing temperature which, due tothe melting of the waxes, ranges between 70 and 80° C. and at whichtemperature the other additives are added, too. The α-tocopheryl acetateis a common commercial product (CWS/F by Hoffmann-La Roche,Switzerland).

In addition to the α-tocopherol present in the addition complex with thecellulose derivative, the mixture of other additives may contain aproportion of α-tocopherol as radical scavenger.

Another advantageous embodiment of the invention contains mineral saltsamong the additives. These mineral salts may represent a proportioncomparable to that of trace elements in foodstuff or mineral waters,wherein the proportion is related to the overall weight of the lipstick.Such mineral salts include Na, K, Ca, P, Fe, I, Cu, Co, Mo and Zn aswell as Cl and SO₄. The total proportion of such trace elements rangesmostly between 1 and 2.5 g/l and may be present in this proportion inthe lipstick substance according to the invention, too.

The production of the solid compositions according to the invention isperformed by firstly dispersing the cellulose derivative in an oil phasewhile adding phospholipids such as phosphatidylcholine at approximately40-55° C. under stirring at 200-400 rpm. Then, α-tocopherol ester inpowdery form is added, and after increasing the temperature to approx.60-65° C. homogenisation takes place at approx. 10,000 to 15,000 rpm.Thereafter, further cosmetic agents or other additives are added understirring and at temperatures appropriate to these substances and knownto a person skilled in the art. At temperatures between approximately 60and 80° C., the homogenous mixture which has been vented before in theusual way by slow stirring is poured into appropriate moulds and cooleddown.

The invention also relates to a lip or care stick containing vitaminsaccording to the features specified in claim 1, being produced accordingto the aforementioned method, wherein the production is performedwithout adding an aqueous phase.

If resin-like polymers and copolymers are added as additives the meltingpoint of which is higher, it is advantageous to add such substances bymelting to the composition.

Now the invention is explained in more detail using examples. Allnumerical values refer to weight percent unless specified otherwise.

EXAMPLE 1 Lipstick I Caprylic/capric/isostearic/ 7.0 adipic triglycerideIsopropyl palmitate 11.0 Candelilla wax 6.5 Ozokerite wax 2.5 Carnaubawax 0.5 Beeswax 4.0 Lanoline 7.0 Castor oil ad 100 Benzophenone-3 7.0Butyl methoxybenzoylmethane 3.0 α-tocopherol/cellulose complex 16Phosphatidylcholine 1.4 Glycerol 3.0 Pigments 7.0 Fragrances 1.0

Carboxymethyl cellulose is dispersed in castor oil while addingphosphatidylcholine under stirring at 360 rpm at approx. 40° C. Then,α-tocopherol acetate in powdery form (1.2 wt. % relative to the overallcomposition) is added. After increasing the temperature to approx. 62°C., homogenisation takes place at approx. 12,000 rpm. The waxes aremolten at approx. 85° C., cooled down to approx. 75° C. and vented in avacuum. The remaining components are, one after the other, added to theoil phase with the complex at approx. 55° C. and homogenised. Afterincreasing the temperature of the waxes to their melting temperature,the oil phase is added under stirring, and the mixture is homogenisedfor 5 minutes. Pigments and fragrances previously dispersed in castoroil are finally added, and the entire mass is vented, poured into mouldsand cooled down.

EXAMPLE 2 Care stick Isopropyl palmitate 15.0 Candelilla wax 7 Riz wax 3Carnauba wax 3.5 Beeswax 2.0 Lanoline 10.0 Castor oil ad 100 Jojoba oil2.0 α-tocopherol/cellulose complex with 8.0 phosphatidylcholine Glycerol5.0 Food flavouring 0.5 Fragrances 0.5

Processing is performed in the same manner as in Example 1.

What is claimed is:
 1. A lipstick on a wax base, which containsvitamins, said lipstick further comprising an addition complex of: acellulose derivative, a phospholipid and an α-tocopherol ester whereinthe cellulose derivative is provided in the form of micro-capsules or amixture of micro-capsule and microcapsule fragments.
 2. A lipstickaccording to claim 1, wherein the α-tocopherol ester is α-tocopherylacetate.
 3. A lipstick on a wax base, which contains vitamins, saidlipstick further comprising an addition complex of: a cellulosederivative, a phospholipid, an α-tocopherol ester and neral salts in anamount of from 1 to 2.5 g/l.
 4. A lipstick according to claim 1, whereinthe phospholipid is phosphatidylcholine.
 5. A lipstick according toclaim 1, wherein the proportion of the addition complex is 2 to 30 wt. %relative to the overall weight of said lipstick.
 6. A lipstick accordingto claim 1, wherein the proportion of the addition complex is 5 to 25wt. % relative to the overall weight of said lipstick.
 7. A lipstickaccording to claim 1, further comprising additives selected from thegroup consisting of oil-soluble UVA and UVB filters.
 8. A lipstickaccording to claim 1, further comprising additives selected from thegroup consisting of TiO₂, SiO₂, ZnO and mixtures thereof.
 9. A lipstickon a wax base which contains vitamins, said stick comprising an additioncomplex of: a cellulose derivative selected from the group consisting ofcarboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose,hydroxypropyl cellulose and hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, saidderivative having particle sizes between 0.5 and 100 μm, a phospholipidand an α-tocopherol ester selected from the group consisting ofα-tocopheryl acetate, -succinate, -propionate, -oleate, -linolate,-sorbate, said addition complex comprising 0.5 to 40 wt. % of saidlipstick, said lipstick further comprising cosmetically conventionalfats, waxes and additives having a proportion of 99.5 to 60 wt. % ofsaid lipstick, said lipstick being produced by a process comprising:dispersing said cellulose derivative in an oil phase while adding thephospholipid under stirring at 200 to 400 rpm at a temperature between40 to 55° C., adding the α-tocopherol ester in powdery form understirring and increasing the temperature to 60 to 65° C., homogenisingthe mixture at 10,000 to 15,000 rpm, adding fats, waxes and, optionally,further additives, and pouring the homogenised mixture at 60 to 80° C.into moulds, wherein the process is performed without adding an aqueousphase.
 10. A lipstick as in claim 1, wherein said cellulose derivativeis selected from the group consisting of carboxymethyl cellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose andhydroxypropylmethyl cellulose.
 11. A lipstick as in claim 10, whereinsaid cellulose derivative when added has a particle size of between 0.5and 100 μm.
 12. A lipstick as in claim 1, wherein said α-tocopherolester is selected from the group consisting of α-tocopheryl acetate,-succinate, -propionate, -oleate, -linolate, and -sorbate.
 13. Alipstick as in claim 1, wherein said addition complex comprises 0.5 to40 wt. % of the overall weight of said stick.
 14. A lipstick as in claim1, said lipstick comprising cosmetically acceptable fats, waxes andadditives in an amount of 99.5 to 60 wt. % based on the overall weightof said stick.
 15. A lipstick according to claim 7, wherein saidoil-soluble UVA and UVB filters are selected from the group consistingof 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid esters, benzo-phenonederivatives, 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, salicylic acidderivatives, benzimidazol derivatives, and benzoylmethane derivatives.